I have food entries out the yin yang to write. Too bad I can’t find my menu from Trio for mom’s birthday (WAAAAAH! Where did it GO!) or Citronelle, but Citronelle was way less involved so I can recap it from memory.
When we went to DC, we had Sean for a day before the inlaws rode into town. It had been quite some time since we’d attempted to dine anywhere with him other than 40. I hadn’t realized what a difference familiar surroundings, a familiar menu, and Michael Smith and Debbie Gold you two are GODS thank you for taking our obstreperous toddler out of our hands so we could eat dinner and walk him around and show him the prep line and feed him cracklicious frites (Michael reports Sean likes licking the fleur de sel off, faaaabulous) makes. We ate outside at a restaurant in DuPont circle, nice but forgettable, artfully presented food like I’ve seen at dozens of other high end hotel restaurants. Sean made a mess, threw his cup repeatedly, and tried to climb out of his highchair and then his stroller. A fun time was had by all.
(Side bar: the sous chef as 40 [well, one of them] is a gentle giant of a guy named John. John has a perfect goatee and a bald head, and wears a rolled up bandana as a sweatband. One fine day a few months back I had to get Sean out of the house for a few hours while they sprayed the casa for bugs, so we went to 40 for lunch. Towards the end, Jamie kicked on the espresso machine and Sean promptly had a meltdown. Various waiters and waitresses tried soothing him, and nothing worked, until John came out of the kitchen, cooed at Sean, and took the wee man’s hand and patted his goatee. “Fuzzy!” Moved Sean’s hand to pat the clean-shaven part of his face, “Smooth!” “Fuzzy! Smooth!” Sean promptly calmed down and began wonderingly patting John’s face. John, pleased with himself, declared, “See, you can’t cry at me, I’m too silly looking!” Sean then promptly reached for John’s smooth bald head, prompting everyone to crack up.)
I had cleverly arranged for us to have our best dinner of the DC trip on the night the inlaws took Sean back to their house, as a means of distracting us (read: me) from paranoid fretting. After leaving them at the air and space museum, we sauntered to the Sackler, and eventually wound our way back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. A hair-raising cab ride later, and we were disgorged into the hotel lobby where Citronelle is. It’s a very strange space; it reminds me of the fancy restaurants my parents would take me to in the 80s- the colors, the style, the layout- but there are aspects of it which are not dated in the least, like the enormous, L-shaped windowed wine cellar and the open kitchen. It was a strange melange of fine French dining, 80s California design, and Washington Power.
We had a table with a perfect view of the ginormous wine cellar (600+ selections, over 8,000 bottles. Despite outstripping our cellar by a factor of 80, we got a ton of ideas for what to do in the basement if/when we finish it. Anyone know jack about doing electrical, framing walls, doing drywall, and flooring? How about recessed lighting? Anyone?), and they ascertained quickly we had no theatre reservations that night, and were in for the long haul. They run a room with two sommeliers, and we had the younger of the two- and a woman, which pleased me no end. They have so many table captains, though, that at times service was screwed up just because they lost track and essentially mentally tripped over one another, but oh well.
We were in DC for the end of Restaurant Week, and were treated to a family with 3 kids coming in, being shocked by the construction of the menu, and then being more shocked that there was no kids’ menu, and then truly shocked Citronelle wasn’t participating in restaurant week. I discovered later in the evening that the two little girls were keeping themselves from going mad with boredom by playing hide-n-seek in the enormous ladies’ room inbetween courses. As they were navigating trying to order for 3 children under the age of 10, the Lad and I requested a second copy of the wine list so we wouldn’t have to share, and then hunkered in for the long haul of 8 courses:
Amuse Bouche Actually, 3 amusees in one, on a long white rectangular plate. Poached asparagus slices in asparagus reduction, presented in a hollowed- out eggshell split the long way. Vitello tonnato, a slice of terrine of thin veal and raw tuna layered in perfect stripes, and a cigar of wild mushrooms in a spring roll wrapper.
Vichysoisse Without a doubt, the best potato leek soup I have ever tasted. Presented artfully, with a spoon made of shaped, fried potato (the best Pringle ever) topped with a dollop of perfect potato salad. This was one of the courses where the service shanked, as they gave us the wrong kind of spoon (we were told to not try eating the soup with the potato spoon, it would fall apart and we’d get splatted)
Foie gras, with red onion pickle We had earned ourselves an arched eyebrow and an approving nod when, after announcing we weren’t going to do the wine pairings, we would instead stick with our cocktails, then have glasses of sauterne with the foie gras, and then a bottle of Stag’s Leap with the meat courses. The Sauterne was perfect and unbelievable, the foie gras silky smooth. The Lad has a never ending quest for the perfect ravioli. I have a quest to match the foie gras at Toque! in Montreal, and I have to say, good as Citronelle’s was…. it wasn’t Toque. But very tasty!
Soft shell crab, tempura, vegetable chili Here our dinners diverged, as my allergies made this a no go. Instead, they shot out the grab atop a lemongrass and ginger sauce, with gently poached and sauteed veggies. So so so good. The crab was light and crisp, no hint of connective tissue (often a problem for me when eating soft shell crab). I tried a taste of the Lad’s preparation, and hot damn, it was good but a plate of it would have made me violently ill.
Lobster Medallion Citronelle sauce, japanese eggplant. I damn to near licked the plate clean. Perfect. Oh, except for my being allergic to the eggplant, but that was easily avoided.
Squab Minute breast steak, potato crusted leg confit, english peas and snow peas, cinnamon cabernet sauce. The squab was sliced and splayed out on opposite corners of the plate, atop gently mashed English peas (causing me to think of Nigella making mushy peas and giggle) and chiffonade of snow peas. In the middle sat the leg, skewered on a stainless steel corn pick and wrapped in a thin loop of potato, perfectly crusted over. The Lad DID use his bread to mop the plate clean.
Imported cheese selection Let’s face it. I love cheese. Cheese cheese cheese. The roquefort on here was so goddamn strong my eyes watered and my tongue itched. Bad call on their parts for the American palate, especially with dessert still to come.
Chocolate three ways Again on a long rectangular plate, a tiny dish of perfect chocolate gelatto, a layered chocolate mousse thing, and… something I forget. We had eau de vie with this, thus completing the total inebriation.
Petits fours Please god. No more.
What amazes me is that the next morning we managed- somehow- to wake up and go eat brunch at Bis. We are dedicated in our piggery.
Next time: Zatinya (Everything good you’ve heard? So so so true.), and a backlog recap of Trio (I hope. Where the hell IS that menu? Did it wind up in the Lad’s backpack since I accidentally brought it with to DC [it was still in my suitcase] or did it get left behind in the hotel in DC? Damnit!)